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| Train #11, Southbound Coast Starlight |
Is traveling by rail perfect and without mishap? Not a bit. Most of the rails are owned by the freight lines, so freight trains take precedence. Passenger trains can be anywhere from a few minutes early, to many hours late. Many of the train cars themselves are ancient, so have a plethora of potential problems. But if you take it all as part of a package, it can still be a worthy way to go. On Amtrak there are a wide range of options as to where you spend those hours aboard, ranging in price and availability. In this blog I'd like to showcase a few of these, so you can see what might be the best options for your next journey. All will be filtered through my personal viewpoint, so if you want accurate information, go to Amtrak's website.
If you are traveling for several hours during the day, you will likely chose to ride Coach. Unlike a plane, there is no middle seat in your row and the seats are large and comfortable, with plenty of legroom. Depending on the train, you may have the option to upgrade to Business Class or First Class, with varying perks attached to each category. Riding coach has changed a great deal since my first solo cross-country trip as a teen in the mid 70s. On that trip, my seatmate was a chain-smoking drunk that stank to high heaven. I also left my favorite pillow behind when I changed trains in the behemoth Seattle station. I had a little food packed by my aunt, but didn't have two nickels to rub together, much less to buy food. And that was a pity for more reasons than that I was hungry. The very idea of buying food on a train was so compelling to my teenage heart.
If you value your privacy enough, and have more, lots more, than two nickels to rub together, you might consider reserving a room in a Sleeper car. In each sleeper car there is an attendant that will ready your bed for you each night, make coffee in a common percolator, possibly bring you food, and ideally make sure you get off the train where you are supposed to. As with coach travel, the sleeper has a variety of options to choose from, priced accordingly. The smallest, and least expensive is a Roomette. It is configured to have two comfy seats facing each other in front of a large window. A small tray can be pulled out between them for a table.
Roomettes, like most sleepers are upstairs in the train. The stairs are very narrow and steep. This is where traveling light comes in handy. There are restrooms, with nice showers downstairs, and a single restroom upstairs by the rooms. Towels, washcloths and bedding are provided. It's difficult to photograph both sides of the room at the same time, due to the narrow entry door, but below you can see both the forward and rear facing seats. At night the seats are pulled together to form a lower bunk. If a second sleeping space is needed, the slanted panel above is let down to form a narrow upper bunk. That blue drape can be drawn for privacy, and there is also a sliding door that you can see the metal edge of on the right side of the top photo. It can be closed and locked from the inside, but no lock from the outside. The proximity of the door to the seat cushion indicates to you how much space (or little, in this case) is available for walking.
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| Roomette Seat on the Coast Starlight |
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| Roomette Seat, with Bunk Above and Step for Bunk |
For a single person, this is a viable option. For two people who really like each other, it's a cozy option. In a sleeper car there will be roomettes on each side of a narrow hallway. It's loads of fun trying to walk without slamming into either wall, when the train is rocking along at eighty miles an hour.
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| Hallway Between Roomettes |
Before I move on to other types of rooms, I'll make mention of the luggage issue. On most trains, when you enter the sleeper car, there is a luggage rack near the door. I always drop my small roller bag there as I come in, and wear my backpack up the narrow steps. Once settled into my room, and the hall and stairs are clear, I go down and retrieve that bag. However, if there are two of you sharing a roomette, you may not have space for two roller bags. Thus, you would want to plan ahead and have everything you need for that stretch of the journey in your backpack. You will have access to your luggage throughout your journey. Just a note...checked luggage, available on most trains, is a whole 'nother thing. You would not have access to that.
If you need a little more space and have lots more nickels, you may want to consider a Bedroom. A bedroom is twice as big as a roomette, as there is just a windowed hallway on one side. The bedroom will have a couch running most of the width of the room, with a captains chair facing it, near the large window. There will be a narrow bunk above the couch. Made up, the lower bed is probably about the size of a standard twin. The upper is narrower.
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| Bedroom, on Amtrak Sleeper |
As you can see in the photo below, there is plenty of room for a small suitcase under the captains chair as well as more floor space. There is also a sturdy shelf above the captains chair that could hold a small carryon.
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| Bedroom on Amtrak Sleeper |
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| Lower Bed Made up on Amtrak Bedroom |
A bedroom also contains a compact wet-bath with toilet and shower, as well as a sink and small vanity near the door. Below you can see one version of the ensuite bathroom.
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| Ensuite Bathroom, Amtrak Bedroom |
If you are traveling with a group or family, on some trains, you may be able to secure a Bedroom Suite. This is provided by opening the door between two bedrooms, giving you double the space, as well as two bathrooms.
There are two other sleeper options that might be available to choose from. First, the Family Bedroom. This room has no in-room shower or bathroom, but has two upper, and two lower bunks. It accommodates two adults and two children. And lastly, there is a room on the entry level of the train for those with mobility issues. The Accessible Bedroom has ample space for a wheelchair, and in-room toilet and sink, upper and lower bunks, and comfortable seating for two during the day.
On The Cardinal, I encountered an innovative roomette design. As I entered, I noted the extra little table by the door, and happily shucked off my backpack and dropped it there.
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| Roomette on The Cardinal |
As we began to roll away from the station, and I settled in, I noticed the little latch below the stack of towels at the top left of the photo. I turned it, and voila, there was a sink! And directly below, was a toilet. Who knew?
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| Ensuite Toilet and Sink in The Cardinal Roomette |
Directly opposite this configuration is the second seat, and a small luggage shelf. Below that, if you look closely, you'll see a tiny roll of toilet paper. This whole concept threw me for a loop as the idea of traveling with a potty beside me the entire way to Chicago was a bit disconcerting. However, as the miles rumbled by, I began to appreciate its convenience. But here's where the cheese gets binding (borrowing from Father Tim). How comfortable are you with this idea when traveling with a spouse or friend? I'll let you think about that.
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| Roomette Seat on The Cardinal |
This little room had a few other surprises. First, the upper bunk had its own window with a curtain. I have a special memory from a previous trip, of daughter Alyssa joining me on my lower bunk to watch gas flares on the dark North Dakota prairie. On this train she would have her own window. Additionally, on the opposite side of the room, above the entry door, was a nice storage space that utilized the area above the central aisle of the train.
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| Overhead Storage in The Cardinal Roomette |
In addition to privacy, and the ability to stretch out on a bed to sleep, there are other perks to paying for a room of any kind. At the top of the list for me would be that meals are included. Amtrak practices "community dining". The booths hold four, and they always fill each booth, even if there are many empty ones. If you are a couple, they ask you to sit on one side, so that they can put two people across from you. The pandemic changed this for a while, but now it is back to normal.
For those who have not traveled on a train, in addition to navigating narrow, swaying hallways, in order to traverse from one car to another, you will go through a set of double doors (one on each end of every car), by hitting the black rectangle (or kicking the lower one if your hands are full). In between the cars, you will be standing on shifting steel plates that cover the couplers of the cars. At the entrance of the dining car, usually just one or two cars down from your room, you wait for a dining attendant to seat you.
The dining car is open at varied times daily, dependent on the particular train's schedule. Breakfast times will be announced the evening before. This meal is first come, first serve. Lunch is usually announced as first call, second call, last call. Sometimes by reservation.
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| Breakfast and Lunch Menu, Amtrak Dining |
To me, every dish that comes up the dumbwaiter from the kitchen below, is seasoned with the magical first ingredient of adventure. Though its flavors may be ordinary, the essence of a dish is somehow infused with "what is around the next bend?". If ingredients become lacking or stale towards the end of the line, they are bolstered by a new view...a particular light slanting through the trees, or a mountain you have never glimpsed.
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| Omelet, with a side of Bacon and Grits, Amtrak Dining |
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| Railroad French Toast with Fresh Berries, Amtrak Dining |
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| Dining Room with a View, Amtrak Diner |
After lunch the head dining car attendant will make their way through the sleepers, knocking on doors, offering reservations for dinner. Available times with depend on the sleeper car load as well as the train schedule. When the mealtime is almost over, they may announce a "last call" for those who may have boarded since reservations were made, or perhaps were napping when the knock came. Occasionally they will do lunch by reservation also.
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| Lunch and Dinner Reservations, Amtrak Dining |
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| Dinner Menu, Amtrak Dining |
As stated on the menu, dinner is a three-course affair. The tiny salad of baby greens topped with a baby brie was my go-to starter, and never disappointed. As to the main entrée, I tried the chicken, the tortellini and the salmon. The salmon won, hands down. Though the sauces and sides varied between trains, it was done to a turn every time.
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| Grilled Salmon with Ancient Grains |
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| Vegetable-forward Salmon Entrée |
Both a blessing and a curse, dessert was offered following every lunch and dinner. I was able to resist a few times, but usually ended up caving. If I was too full from the meal, I'd take it back to my room with a decaf coffee. All three desserts offered were top notch.
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| Carrot Cake with Walnuts and Pineapple |
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| Cheesecake with Fresh Berries |
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| Flourless Chocolate Torte |
Back in the day, Amtrak served their meals on china, accompanied by metal flatware and glassware. Then for a while they went to all disposable items. Now they are slowly bringing the reusable items back. At dinner time they use nice white tablecloths and napkins, metal utensils and glassware, but food arrives on heavy disposable plastic. I'm told that ceramic dishes are on order. The originals are on display in a memorabilia case in Los Angeles.
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| Table Setting from Amtrak's Bygone Years, Los Angeles |
Some routes don't have a dining car, but offer what is called Flexible Dining. These are prepackaged items that are heated for you to eat in your room, or in the cafe car. Depending on the entree, and how they are heated, they vary from "I wish I'd stuck with the granola bar" to, scrape-the-plate delicious.
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| Flexible Dining Menu, Amtrak |
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| Sesame Glazed Salmon Entrée, Flexible Dining |
The two routes where I was offered this option, I chose the salmon. The first time it was quite sad, the second it was delicious. There is an appalling amount of plastic that is thrown in the trash with these meals, and in my opinion, that iceberg should have been left in the Antarctic.
In addition to the above options, most, if not all routes have a café car. This is a walk-up counter with snacks, as well as some hot entrees. There will be at least a few tables where you can eat, or you can take your box of food with you, to eat in your seat, the sightseer lounge, or your room. This car is open whenever the attendant isn't sleeping or on break, and is available to anyone.
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| Cafe Car Menu, Amtrak |
On my train from DC to Charlottesville, VA, I had a coach seat, and purchased the Turkey and Smoked Gouda. An excellent choice, it was a hot baguette sandwich, wrapped in foil for ease of eating.
Where else can you while away the hours on a train? Most of the longer routes have a sightseer lounge, or observation car. With comfortable seating groups, possibly tables, and windows arcing up the ceiling, this is usually a bright and cheerful car. With a few potted plants it could be an atrium. Most of the time the café car will be located on the lower level of this car.
The extra glass makes it easier to enjoy the scenery, but also adds the challenge of reflections in photos. But what are photos but memory-joggers?
Each Amtrak route has its own station stops scheduled in. Most are very brief (four or five minutes), only allowing passengers off and on. A few are a bit longer, so that the train can take on water, fuel and supplies. Usually at these stops there is a change of the engineering crew. At these stops, and only these stops, are you allowed off the train to stretch your legs. You'll need to stay on the platform and very aware of the train, as they slip out of the station with very little fanfare. If you are in a sleeper, your car attendant will likely keep an eye on you and attempt to make sure you get back on in time. The train does usually give two short blasts of the horn before rolling out but it's easy to ignore them if there are several trains in station.
Many of the smaller stations, like my home station of Vancouver, WA, are old and charming. Grand Junction, Colorado is one such station. Constructed in 1906 of golden brick and red tiles, it is said to be the setting of at least one movie.
Many of the smaller stations, like my home station of Vancouver, WA, are old and charming. Grand Junction, Colorado is one such station. Constructed in 1906 of golden brick and red tiles, it is said to be the setting of at least one movie.
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| Grand Junction, Colorado Amtrak Station |
There would be so much more that could be said about traveling by train. Every journey, and every person on that journey will be unique. So where will you go for your first, or for your next journey? Myself, there are still a few routes in the United States that I have not been on. And then, there's the rest of the world. I've heard that there are some amazing routes in South America.
