#28, Exploring the Windy City

 February 29, 2024

Annie and I both had several hours of layover in Chicago, but from here we would go our separate ways.  She, aboard the Texas Eagle, would head southwest to her home in Colorado.  I, aboard the Empire Builder, would be going pretty much straight west, bound for Washington.  We spent an hour or so together in the Metropolitan Lounge, before I bundled up for a walk around the city.  

It really wasn't as windy as its moniker implies, and barely freezing, but in the shade cast by tall buildings it was quite biting.  Still, locals were clearly thinking spring, as I saw none of the ankle-sweeping parkas as they gathered curbside, or strode along the sidewalks.  

I set out towards Lake Michigan, which, from Union Station is almost a straight shot down Jackson Boulevard.  But in an effort to keep to sunnier streets, I took a zig-zag route.  Unfortunately, I got way off course and added many blocks to my walk. 

Chicago's elevated train, or "The L", made its first run in 1862.  Some of those tracks are still in use as part of a city-wide system that also includes subway.  I had promised myself that the next time I had some time in Chicago, I'd try it out, but meeting Annie changed that.  So, next time.  Below, you can see the metal structure above Van Buren Street.  I've walked under it a bit, and think I'd prefer to be on top, as it's rather loud.  And then there's the question of how stable is a Tinker Toy-like structure built during the Civil War?

By the time I finally entered Grant Park, then crossed busy Lakeshore Drive, my hip arthritis was causing me some serious pain.  Still, I love to stand on the edge of such a vast body of water.

Measured by area, Lake Michigan is the largest lake in the world that is contained within a single country.  Although it is freshwater, it seems to be more of an ocean than a lake.

Nearing the water, actually Monroe Harbor, there are broad flights of stairs leading down to a expansive sidewalk.  I needed to sit down to relieve my hip pain, but there was actually only one bench, and it was occupied.  So I scooted to the edge of the concrete and let my feet dangle over the water. 

After a short rest I began to make my way back, first walking north along the water towards the Navy Pier, before heading west towards Union Station.

In the middle of the city is this fantastic looking playground called Millennium Park.  I was hurting too much to explore, but I did take the long, meandering path through it as there was no shorter way at that point.

As soon as I got through the park and back on a street that could accommodate a pick up, I opened my Uber app.  I couldn't walk another step.  But before I could even arrange a ride, I noticed a couple of taxis idling across the street in front.  I hopped in one, and was soon back at Union Station.  Possibly the best $8 I've ever spent. 

After a brief rest in the lounge, and a chat with Annie, I made my way back outside and down the street to Beggars Pizza.  No point in stopping in Chicago if you aren't going to get a slice of their pizza.  Housed on the ground floor of one of the city's many tall buildings, Beggars is just a quick walk from the station and from many nearby businesses, so it's always busy.

The traditional deep-dish takes an eon to make, but thankfully they have a well stocked selection of single slices.  The pepperoni was fresh out of the oven and flowing with cheesy goodness.  Wrapped in foil and then in a box, it was still amazing by the time I got back to the station to enjoy it.

#27, The Lakeshore Limited and a New Friend

 February 28 - 29, 2024

The Lakeshore Limited is advertised as one of the most scenic routes that Amtrak travels.  If one could set the schedule, that would likely be true, as it tootles through the farmland of New York, touches Lake Ontario, and follows the shoreline of Lake Erie.  However, even on summer's longest days, much of the route is traveled in darkness.  In both directions.  I checked.  That said, it still is an enjoyable run, with plenty to see out the window.  Late afternoon we headed north out of NYC.  Below, a bridge near the southern tip of Manhattan creates an interesting reflection. 

What this trip lacked in jaw-dropping views, it was compensated by a new friend and travel companion.  On the previous leg of the journey, I had the door to my roomette slid open, but the curtain closed, so I was able to see the feet across the hall.  I could also hear her conversations with the car attendant.  So, though I'd not yet met my hall-mate, I deduced that she was older than me, not super stable on her feet, and not very confident in her travel.  I travel solo, and like it that way, but somehow I sensed that we needed to connect for a spell. 

Stepping into the hall outside of our rooms on the Silver Meteor, as we prepared to disembark in NYC, I introduced myself to her.  Annie, from Colorado, asked if I knew where we needed to go, and I assured her that I did, as I was an old pro with this station (having been there before, all of one time). I've been under-confident in new cities or stations so many times (even while trying to hide it) that it was fun to share my travel savvy. 

With my new friend Anne ensconced in the upstairs lounge of the Moynihan Train Hall keeping an eye on our luggage, I brought us a selection of drinks and treats from the attended snack counter.  Then we proceeded to while away our wait time, getting to know one another and sharing travel stories.  Annie was born in France but had spent most of her life in the US.  All her people were gone from the old country now.  She had been a counselor of sorts, and enjoyed interpreting dreams, so I had some fun with that.  I do believe that most dreams are sleep-contorted manifestations of daytime thoughts and fears.  She had some thought-provoking ideas on the basis of the three dreams I shared with her.

As the cloudy afternoon segued to evening, we headed in a northerly direction up the Hudson River. 

We had similar phones so shared with one another tips and tricks for their use.  For example, she was unaware of the "night mode", so I demonstrated some practice shots, with a heavy disclaimer regarding the train movement and dirty windows.  As we shared dinner together, we passed the Hudson-Athens lighthouse all lit up like a little Christmas shop.

Traveling in a westerly direction, New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio slipped by in the dark, with the occasional quiet stop to exchange passengers.  Soothed by the constant rocking motion and the clickity-clack of the metal wheels, I didn't awaken until the cool morning sun lit the stubby fields of eastern Indiana. 

Annie had a roomette in a different car from me, so other than passing her in the aisle on the way to a rather unremarkable, packaged breakfast, I didn't see her on this leg of the journey.  

Indiana gave way to Illinois as we continued to rumble westward.  Since it was still winter, we saw bits of snow over slumbering farmland.  Ponds shimmered dully beneath a coat of ice.

Late morning we left behind the prairies, rounded the southern tip of Lake Michigan and were slowly making our way into Chicago.  Crossing its many bridges, we eventually wended our way into the darkened train garage, and disembarked into the magnificent Union Station.