#24 The Lake Shore Limited, the Journey Home Begins

 Monday, May 15, 2023

A leisurely breakfast, one last foray on the subway, and a brief excursion into Central Park nicely filled my remaining hours in this vibrant city.  Back in the lobby, I thanked the guy at the front desk for all his help during my short stay.  He noted that I looked a bit overheated so gave me a couple of chilled bottles of water to enjoy while relaxing in their street-view lounge.  While sitting there I fell into conversation with a blind man who I'd shared the elevator with earlier in the day.  He was there for a business conference.  I was amazed at how well he navigated with no sight, and how confident he seemed in the business world.  We talked about how we all are blind in some ways, even if we have full use of our eyes. 

Around 3:00 I set out for the station.  As I had taken Uber to the hotel, I considered returning that way, but the front desk guy convinced me that it was closer than it seemed on the map.  Actually, it was farther than it seemed, as there are two stations.  By the time I got there I was exhausted, and more than happy to wait in the upscale, loft-style lounge of Moynihan Train Hall. 

This side jaunt to NYC came about because I had been hearing what a beautiful route the Lake Shore Limited was.  Beginning in Boston and NYC, it runs along lakes and through some of the most compelling views on its meander into Chicago.  

As trains are wont to do in big cities, we slowly chugged our way due north along the Hudson River. 

The Hudson Athens Lighthouse is one of only seven remaining of the dozens that used to dot the shores of the Hudson River.  Marking what was once dangerous sand flats, it is accessible only by boat, and is available for occasional tours. 

It was nearing 8:00 in the evening when the sky grew golden and dusky as the landscape began to obscure the low-slung sun.  With no dining car on this train, I had taken an unremarkable packaged meal in my little roomette. Cafe cars tend to be less cozy, and have an awkwardness about them.  In the dining car we are required to eat with random strangers no matter how empty the car may be.  In the cafe car, it isn't required but sometimes someone just sits at your table. Then, do you put away your book or phone and make conversation or let them have the space to do their thing?

Though much of the scenery isn't remarkable, I always feel compelled to try to photograph it.  The challenge of the dirty windows, and the landscape rushing by, along with the sway of the train, is hard to resist.  

And then, in a golden haze, the sun slipped away for the night over the Mohawk River.  My little bed was made up, my curtains drawn, and I cozied up with a book as the train clacked and swayed into the night.

As I slept, we rumbled onward, whistle shrieking through every little town.  It was nearly midnight when we pulled into Rochester, on the shores of Lake Ontario, and then about an hour later we kissed the tip of Lake Erie at Buffalo, NY, before following its southern shoreline for more than 200 miles. 

 

According to the schedule, while I still had my head under the covers, and dawn began to pink the sky, our route pulled away from Lake Erie and headed straight west.  By the time I was up, dressed and heading for breakfast, we were rolling through the wheat-stubbled fields of northern Ohio.

Neat farms dotted the landscape, surrounded by their vast acres of green and brown.  Many lacking obvious power lines were likely owned by Amish families.

Bryan, Ohio has been home to the Spangler Candy Company since 1906.  Maker of the Dum Dum lollipop, Circus Peanuts, Neccos and more.  The water tower near the tracks is painted to look like a lollipop.

With a manufacturing facility covering over 920,000 square feet, they continue to create some of my favorites.  Today's board members are third and fourth generation descendants of the three Spangler brothers who founded the sweet business. 

Where do old trains go when they die? Some of them go to Elkhart, Indiana and join the museum there.  The railroad first arrived in Elkhart in 1851.  The museum, with its collection of old engines, rustic box cars and cleverly painted passenger cars, is dedicated to showcasing the New York Central Railway system, once the second largest railway in the United States.

Late morning we made our slow way around the southern end of the vast Lake Michigan.  The serene landscapes of fields and silos giving way to boats, bridges, and tall buildings as I began to gather up my scattered belongings in anticipation of our arrival in Chicago. 

By the time we disembarked in the dark cavern of Union Station, I was getting hungry for lunch.  I stowed my bags in the luggage room, and then made my way across the street to Beggar's Pizza for a slice of the city's famous deep-dish.  When it was my turn to order, the last slice of pepperoni had just been claimed so I opted for a slice of veggie. I'm sure that it was better for me, but didn't compare to the cheesy, salty goodness of pepperoni. 

I hope to never get so jaded by travel that I fail to appreciate the beauty and grandeur of these old stations.  There are so many unique details to take in if you make the effort to slow down and look around.