#14 Christ Church, Frederica

 May 9, 2023

The idea of a bucket list is something that I’ve always pushed back against, as it seems to suggest a need to do those items on the list to be happy.  I believe that my happiness comes from a choice in the moment.  To be happy in the circumstances, whatever they may be.  Not happy, if and when I reach the carrot I have dangled in front of myself.  Especially since some carrots turn out to have nasty, bitter cores. 

All that said, while I did not need to see Christ Church on Frederica Road to be happy, I was highly anticipating it.  Thus, on the first morning of my stay on St Simons Island, I pointed my car north. 

I need to say here, that probably only someone who has read Eugenia Price’s historical novel, “Beloved Invader” will really understand how much this visit could mean to me.  Either way though, it’s an important piece of SSI history.

Though paved now, rather than shell, Frederica Road is beautiful with its broad, sweeping curves and overhanging oaks.  I could still picture Anna Gould rattling along in her buggy to put flowers on dear Ellen’s grave.  The photo below isn't actually Frederica Road, but but looks much like it.

I’ll shortcut a bit of history here.  In 1808, at the northern end of SSI, the owners, and planters of 14 large plantations, growing some of the world’s finest cotton, desired to build a church.  Due to several delays, including the war of 1812, it wasn’t constructed until 1820.  The church became a social hub of the community, with John Couper, owner of Cannon’s Point Plantation, bringing the weekly mail for all.

In 1861, the Civil War broke out, and civilians, as well as many of their slaves, evacuated the island and returned to the mainland.  Union troops not only occupied the island, but they also moved into the little church. The destroyed much of it and desecrated it by using the altar as a butcher block for their stolen animals.

At the end of the war, and the end of slavery, when the families returned, they were no longer wealthy plantation owners.  Thus, though they desired to repair the church, they simply didn’t have the funds to do so.  Then, in 1868, William Dodge, a Yankee, moved to SSI and opened a lumber mill.  It became very prosperous, with a town growing up around it.  A small, non-denominational chapel was constructed at The Mills, so once again the islanders had a place of worship. 

In 1879, another Yankee, Anson Green Phelps Dodge Jr, grandson of William Dodge, came to help out with the lumber business.  He was but 19 years old, and over family objections, planning to marry his cousin, Ellen Ada Dodge.  During his visit to the island, Anson came across the lovely, but desecrated old church in the wild, and fell in love with it.  Restoring it became his passion. 

In 1880, Anson and Ellen eloped, and set out to see the world on their honeymoon.  Sadly, in Allahabad, India, Ellen ate some fresh fruit, developed cholera, and died.  Her heartbroken young husband brought her body home, ship by ship, and laid her to rest in the little church cemetery.  Grief stricken, he decided that in Ellen’s memory, he would rebuild the church instead of restoring the old one. 

Even before his marriage, he had turned his life over to God, and felt the call to preach The Word.  Thus, even while construction was going on, he was away at seminary in New York.  In 1884, construction, funded by Ellen’s inheritance as well as Anson’s own funds, was begun.  In 1885 Anson was ordained to the priesthood, and in 1886, on a joyful, but freezing, Epiphany Sunday, the new church, built on the old cornerstone, was consecrated.  Several of the worshippers who crowded into the new church, had been present at the consecration of the old one, 43 years prior.   Anson had promised to never leave Ellen’s side.  Thus, during construction he had her body placed beneath the altar, so that when he preached, she would be right there beside him.  A plaque was placed in her memory.

Cruciform in design, the church was constructed by ship builders.  Looking up into the rafters, you see that they resemble an upside-down ship’s hull.  Built of Georgia heart pine, the lovely dark patina is all-natural aging.  No stain or sealer has ever been applied.  Interior siding is tongue and groove, and rafters are fitted and pegged, rather than nailed. 

A few of the benches from the first church were salvaged, and are still in use today.

Anson went on to merry Anna Gould, daughter of Horace and Deborah Gould, of Black Banks Plantation.  They had one child, little Anson Green Phelps Dodge III.  Before he was three years old, he died in a tragic buggy accident.  

Anson and Anna had no more children, but in their son's memory they opened their large home as an orphanage for little boys. It ran until 1927 when the home burned down.  Still, the ministry continued at other locations until 1954.

The church is full of beautiful stained glass windows, each with their own story.  At the back of the church is a large one paid for by Rebecca, Anson's mother.  It is a scene of Peter confirming that Jesus is the Christ.  Below the window is a bust of Anson as a young child.

Though the day was very warm and humid, my visit to the church and cemetery was very peaceful and fulfilling.  Eugenia Price's "Lighthouse Trilogy" is historical fiction.  To have the characters leap out of the pages and become so real was amazing.